I’m not a travel writer. I’ll give you my ass-ignorant
ill-considered on videogames, movies,
books, and automobilia, whatever
trash is on my mind, or half-assedly turn out a short story or grossly
exaggerate my plans for novels, but I never tried that noble genre that people
actually like to read- travel. There’s a good reason for this- I studiously
avoid travelling anywhere for any reason. My sincerely held belief is that
everywhere on the Lord’s earth sucks ass, and going anywhere to experience the
local suckiness is a waste of valuable time and resources that could be better
spent on doing nothing at all. However! I sincerely enjoy motorcycles, and
because they have wheels, travelling is a necessary function of using them. So
when a trusted associate of mine informed me he was planning a camping trip with
some trusted associates of his, I promptly invited myself to ride up and join
them for a day, and since this has now happened I will, in fact, write
something about the experience for you.
My associate assured me that I would be welcome to join in,
but that the intended destination, Loch Morar, was too far for a mere jaunt.
Consulting the map, I found this was true- it was about 150 miles, which meant
a round trip would be a 300 mile day in the saddle. My poor ass quivered at the
thought of such punishment- this would, after all, be my first ever proper
long-distance two-wheeled tour. Overnight, then. I’d bungee a tent and some
beer and the less essential stuff to the back, ride up and camp with the boys,
then return the next day. Far better idea.
However, it did raise issue of cargo. My newly-acquired 2003
Suzuki SV650S, the steed for this mission, had only one small storage space
beneath the passenger seat, big enough for the toolkit and a small bottle of
Pepsi at a push, so creativity would be required. The instruction manual for
the throwover panniers I was able to dig out of the garage was apologetic
straight away, whining about motorcycles being a “hostile environment for
luggage”, but with inventive use of the straps and hooks provided I was able to
affix them fairly securely. The tent was another story- a huge relic of the
seventies that my father dragged out of some dusty spider den in the attic, the
monstrous thing had to be perched on the pillion seat and optimistically
wrapped up with bungee cord and hope.
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The route, complete with quite optimistic estimated travel time. |
Things got easier when my contact revealed that poor weather
conditions had kiboshed the camping notion, and that the team had retreated to
a house to which he had a family connection and accordingly keys. The bulky
tent was immediately ditched, and the panniers and rucksack more readily
carried were filled with what I deemed myself to need (beer, junk food and a
sleeping bag). At this point, I was not at all concerned by the ominous phrase
“poor weather conditions”. Later, I would be.
The route, at least, was simple. Pick my way across Glasgow
city and get on the A82, then follow that up and up and up all the way to Fort
William, passing Loch Lomond and Glencoe on the way, then hop on to the smaller
A830 towards Mallaig until reaching the town and loch both named Morar. Fast
roads and killer scenery all the way. North, north, and some west, into some
proper Highland shit, through places with names like ‘Achallader’ and
‘Ballachulish’.
It was windy and drizzly as I prepared to leave, but not at
that point frighteningly so. I backed the bike down the driveway, zero’d the
trip computer and checked the luggage hadn’t already fallen off, and set out. I
got across the city of Glasgow without incident, no mean feat in itself, opting
to cross the river via the Clyde Tunnel rather than Erskine Bridge due to the
wind. I passed Dumbarton with little more than drizzle, but as I approached
Loch Lomond the rain really started. Really, really fucking started. It’s an
unpalatable truth of all outdoor activity that even the best waterproof gear is
eventually permeable, and rain this hard found the cracks in my own outfit in
mere minutes. Worse, the combination of rain in the air and on my visor was
nearly blinding, and water was standing on the road, decimating grip and
concealing potholes. Bunched up with tourists and trucks, I trooped on through
the downpour.
It rained hard the entire length of Loch Lomond, and that’s
a long damn loch. Very cold and very wet, I broke off the main route to stop in
the village of Crianlarch. A vile mini-mart coffee reinvigorated me somewhat as
I tried to dry sodden gloves with a public bathroom hand-dryer, and, sheltered
in a bus stop, I tapped out a text to mother that glossed over the full horror
of the weather.
Despite the load of luggage and my flabby body, the punchy
Suzuki climbed past Tyndrum and Bridge of Orchy without a murmur of complaint.
Acquired only a couple of weeks previously, the SV was my first large capacity
bike, with my previous 125cc machine only sold the day before, and it was
refreshing to ride a bike with this kind of easy torque. Even in top gear,
opening the throttle gives an urgent surge of acceleration, and above about
6000RPM things start to go quite bananas as you approach the redline at 11,000.
Attack-mode high revving wasn’t appropriate, of course, but at a cruise the
chilled out 650cc v-twin motor sounded great and ran better, happy to sit on
most of the sweeping A82 in fifth or sixth gear, only once attempting
alarmingly to grab a mythical gear in between. As I moved onto Glencoe, weather soured once more, spoiling the
magnificent road and scenery somewhat and adding challenge to the constant task
of passing dawdling tourist traffic without obstructing the occasional very
enthusiastic big-BMW touring bike as they passed my dawdling ass.
Christ, there were a lot of big BMWs. Slowed up by traffic
after Glencoe, I pulled into the McDonald’s at Fort William for a well-deserved
cheeseburger and startlingly decent coffee behind an R1200GS, and it’s easy to
see the appeal. The ultra-rugged Paris-Dakar design with heavy duty weather
protection and inbuilt hard luggage openly declares its unburstable long
distance ability. I hear they have heated damn seats- for rider and passenger!
They call these (and their many imitators) “adventure bikes”, and their drastic
overcapability for what a normal rider needs has made them a huge sales hit.
For the kind of ride I was doing, that’s the tool to have, all right- but for
the kind of budget I have, the SV is a more realistic (and, it was turning out,
perfectly capable) choice.
Knowing I was getting into some real Deliverance type
backwoods shit from there on, I topped up the tank before I left Fort William,
though the high-gear open road cruising was not thirsty work. I wasn’t sure
what the final leg would entail- I knew I’d be following signs for Mallaig but
not going all the way there, and my father had advised that his recollection of
the A830 was of a very narrow, very country road. The reality was a little
different. The road had undergone some renovations in the (many, many) years
since Dad had last traversed it, and was now a wide, smooth highway sweeping up
the coast with branches out to various villages en route. Aside from the still
iffy weather conditions, the only hazard came from the death defying overtaking
antics of locals- when a tiny hatchback and large van simultaneously blazed
past me as I progressed at an indicated two over the speed limit, I knew they
were not fucking about.
Eventually I found the exit for Morar, which turned out only
to be before Mallaig by about two miles. The weather had relented, and I rolled
into the quiet village in some very pleasant evening sunshine a mere two and a
half hours later than planned (most of which could be attributed to my lengthy
stops, but I value the skin on my body enough to reduce my pace in such hellish
conditions). The boys welcomed me as a hero, partly because my sodden clothing
betrayed my trials, but mostly because I had beer and they did not. We ate and drank and I recuperated in the
really very pleasant house, and I found that my trash bag luggage waterproofing
system had been, surprisingly, one hundred percent effective. As we watched a
ridiculous Ray Mears DVD, I took a moment to reflect on what had been a tricky
day- a long, wet ride through unfamiliar places, and realised I was already
looking back fondly, and looking forward to the return leg.
After a few hours of fitful (and according to the other
chaps, very snorey) floor sleep, Wednesday brought clear skies and dry roads.
We tidied the house and convoy’d over to the lochside for a quick walk; the
SV’s easy handling allowing me to dodge cyclists, sheep, and sheep shit on the
narrow single-track. With the sun shining, the sweeping A830 back to Fort
William was the kind of road a biker dreams of, and I got the hammer down
enough catch and pass the rest of the guys despite their headstart- though
given they were in a rented Vauxhall, that was perhaps not some Tourist Trophy
shit. I was under the impression we’d be rendezvousing for lunch, but the
bastards passed straight by while I waited at the supermarket, bleating that
they had to get to car back to the rental place on time. No matter, I realised.
With a dry and sunny Glencoe ahead, the ride home was going be magnificent- and
so it proved.
And the real truth is that the ride is what’s important. My
first ever tour, though a reasonably short one, was a blast despite the very
worst efforts of the weather. As obviously, unmistakably awesome as a top of
the line BMW is, “adventure motorcycle” is something of a redundancy. Any ride
is an adventure- any bike is for touring, especially one so user friendly as my
SV650. And while there are pastimes
other
than touring a motorcycle, I’m confident that none can match the feelings of
freedom and exploration coupled with the simple thrill of riding- so, I don’t
give a fuck about any of them.